Originating from the small town of Kaithoon in Rajasthan, the renowned fluidity of Kota silk fabric and its rich variety of designs have enchanted generations. This exquisite fabric is also produced in the villages of Baran, Bundu, and Kota. Known for its light texture, Kota Doria is characterized by its distinctive tiny squares, or "Khats," meticulously handwoven on pit looms. The name "Kota Doria" combines two elements: "Kota" from the place of origin and "Doria," meaning threads.
Kota silk sarees occupy a cherished spot in Indian ethnic fashion today, celebrated for their regal elegance and intricate craftsmanship. Chokhana, a century-old brand, has been celebrating this ancient art form since the 1930s. In this blog, we will go through the history of Kota fabric saree, their making, and how Chokhana is catering the modern women by blending heritage into their clothing.
History of Kota Doria Silk
The origins of Kota Doria are surrounded by several stories, with the most prominent one linked to Rao Kishore Singh. Initially known as Kota Masuriya, this fabric traces its roots to Mysore, where the weavers were called Masuria. In the late 17th century, Rao Kishore Singh, a general in Shahjahan’s army, brought these skilled weavers to Kota.
Originally, Kota Masuriya was woven on narrow looms about 8 inches wide, used primarily for making traditional turbans (Paagh). Over time, the fabric began to be produced on broader looms to create sarees. To enhance the sarees' strength, silk was added to cotton in a 20:80 ratio, resulting in the iconic cotton-silk blend Kota Doria silk saree. This fabric was considered auspicious and was cherished during many religious occasions.
Making Process of Kota Doria
Kota Doria silk sarees are crafted using cotton and Mulberry silk yarns for the base, with gold and silver zari yarns added for intricate warp and weft designs. The cotton yarn provides strength and suppleness, while the silk contributes to the fabric's delicate and transparent quality.
Weaving Kota fabric saree is a traditional household activity in Kaithoon, with most homes housing at least one pit loom. While the entire family often participates in the production, the process is primarily managed by the women.
The making of a Kota Doria saree involves several steps:
- Winding:
Yarn is transferred from hanks to bobbins for the warp and to pirns for the weft.
- Warping:
This step involves determining the required length and number of threads for the fabric's width.
- Dyeing:
If needed, yarns are manually dyed by dipping them in hot dye mixed with water.
- Sizing:
Mainly done for cotton yarn, sizing imparts strength using juice from wild onions and a thin rice paste (maandi).
- Drafting-Denting:
Cotton and silk threads are drafted through a country cotton heald (Ranch) and dented through bamboo or steel reed (Fani) to create the signature checks (Khat).
- Piecing:
To save time, new warp threads are tied to the ends of the previous warp, a method known as piecing.
- Weaving:
Weaving is skillfully performed on pit looms using the throw shuttle technique, ensuring uniformity in the check pattern.
- Designing:
Designs, made using extra warp and weft techniques, are first drawn on graph paper before being woven into the fabric.
Wrap Yourself in Chokhana’s Legacy
Chokhana, a brand steeped in over a century of legacy from Kota, Rajasthan, was born out of a deep love for arts, culture, and the timeless beauty of fabrics. Their handloom sarees, especially the iconic Kota Doria silk, are crafted with a unique touch that sets them apart. Chokhana’s collection features exquisite treasures like pure silver zari sarees from Surat and double tissue sarees, or 'atras,' showcasing intricate double zari work. While Chokhana’s presence has expanded online, its rich heritage remains deeply rooted in its oldest Kota shop, 'Poonam Chand Pradeep Kumar.'
Every saree, once worn by royals, is lovingly handcrafted by skilled weavers, each piece taking over 100 hours to create and brimming with personal care. These sarees are more than just garments; they are a celebration of luxury, heritage, and artistry passed down through generations. When you choose a Chokhana’s kota fabric saree, you’re not just acquiring a piece of history; you’re creating a cherished heirloom, a warm embrace that your daughter will feel, no matter how far she is.